Road cycling in winter not only helps to keep you in shape and fit; regular, correctly dosed outdoor cycling training can strengthen your immune system and defences, and riding along lonely roads and paths that look very different to those in summer gives you completely new impressions and a special experience of nature. TOUR provides the best tips for clothing, bike and training so that road cycling in winter can unfold all these positive effects.
The right road bike clothing in winter - from head to toe
On the head
Under the helmet a thin under cap keeps your head warm. There are many different types of fleece to compensate for your individual sensitivity to the cold. If you sweat quickly, a thin model with a windstopper membrane in the forehead area is enough to protect you from cold draughts; if you get cold easily, look for a slightly thicker, warmer fleece lining.
On the upper body
The onion principle is and remains the best guideline for weather-adapted cycling clothing for road cycling in winter: several layers on top of each other with different functions result in a flexible system for changing conditions. Very important: For functional clothing to work properly, it must fit close to the body - which is not to be confused with constricting.
Baselayer
They used to be called functional vests - but it's the cut and material that matter more than the name. Synthetic fibres are the standard, but more recently the natural fibre merino wool has been conquering the field, either as an admixture or in its pure form. Merino wool can absorb a relatively large amount of moisture, but does not cool down and, above all, is less musty than synthetic fibres. What doesn't work at all for underneath: Cotton. Although it can absorb a lot of moisture, it doesn't release it and then hangs on your body like a wet sack, causing you to cool down very quickly. There are also baselayers with a windstopper membrane on the front, but in our experience, moisture can quickly build up behind them if the training intensity is high enough and then you start to shiver. Windstopper in the outer layer to ward off cold air seems to us to be the better option for road cycling in winter.
The onion principle is and remains the best guide to weather-appropriate cycling clothing
Middle layer
The usual jersey, which should be as breathable as possible, with short or long sleeves and made of thinner or thicker fabric or brushed on the inside, depending on how cold you feel.
Jacket
Softshells - usually three-layer laminates consisting of a lining, membrane and impregnated outer shell - are the best at balancing wind protection, thermal insulation and permeability to body perspiration and, depending on the combination with the layers under the jacket, are suitable for a wide temperature range. If you still want to get out on your bike even at very low temperatures, you should opt for a proper winter jacket with thicker material for even greater insulation. However, if your training intensity is high and the winter weather is cold and sunny, it can quickly become too warm.
The individual perception of cold when riding a road bike in winter varies greatly
Trousers
There are cyclists for whom leg warmers are enough to get them through the winter on a road bike in addition to cycling shorts. The combination is extremely flexible, but normal (summer) cycling shorts may be too wind-permeable on the thighs and especially in the crotch, so that you quickly freeze in the sensitive genital area. The more winter-appropriate addition to short cycling shorts is therefore long cycling shorts without seat padding; the range extends from pure textile shorts to models with sophisticated wind protection thanks to integrated membranes in the right places.
The disadvantage of the two-trousers combination is that there is a lot of double fabric in the hip and lower chest area, which makes it easy to sweat. The trousers can also twist or crease against each other, making them feel a little uncomfortable to wear. Most winter pedallers therefore opt for long winter trousers with seat padding, Here too, the range is almost endless, ranging from simple, rather thin textile trousers to high-tech trousers with different thicknesses of fabric, membrane inserts or trouser legs with a membrane. As time-consuming as it may be to find the right trousers for your individual needs, the variety of products on offer means that there is a good chance of actually finding the perfect winter trousers for your needs.
Most winter pedallers therefore opt for long winter trousers with seat padding
Hands
The same applies to the hands as to the head (and feet): The individual sensation of cold when riding a road bike in winter is very different, which is why one cyclist is still travelling with rather thin, only windproof gloves at temperatures where the other is already wearing thick thermal gloves. But: Your hands can also sweat, which can quickly lead to clammy fingers at low temperatures, which in the worst case can prevent you from reliably operating the brakes and gears. Our recommendation: Wind protection (with an integrated membrane) is obligatory, waterproofness is not mandatory and the insulation (i.e. usually the thickness) is a matter of personal preference. What is often overlooked: In our experience, the grip on the handlebars and the operation of the brakes and gears are more likely to determine whether a glove is used willingly and regularly than its insulation. So check the fit and grip! And make sure that the glove cuff and jacket sleeve overlap sufficiently.
The more uncomfortable the weather becomes, the stronger the defence against cold and dirt becomes necessary
Feet
As cycling shoes tend to fit close to the foot, the options for keeping feet warm with thick socks when cycling in winter are limited. The protection must therefore be on the outside. The minimum solution is neoprene shoe caps, which protect the toes from the cooling wind and, within narrow limits, also keep splash water away from the shoe. The more uncomfortable the weather becomes, the stronger the defence against cold and dirt becomes necessary. If you have fewer problems with cold feet, you should opt for thin, waterproof overshoes, while those who freeze quickly should choose warm overshoes made of neoprene up to several millimetres thick.
Our experience: Overshoes are hard on wetness and dirt, zips break relatively quickly, Velcro straps get muddy and no longer hold. Just a few steps on foot can chafe seams or damage surfaces. In other words: overshoes are a wearing part - you shouldn't have too high hopes of finding the one overshoe for your entire cycling life. What's more, putting on the vast majority of overshoes is usually tedious and sweaty, and quite a few of them break over time. By the way: There are also a few suppliers of proper winter road bike shoes, which are usually identical to mountain bike shoes in terms of construction and just have a different sole. Our tip: If you're looking for winter shoes, then go for those with a grippy MTB sole. Normal road bike shoe soles are not a good base for winter weather mud on basement steps, tiles and slippery pavements.
Accessories for the winterised bike
Light
Without lights on your bike, you shouldn't be out on the road on your road bike in autumn and winter - but which lights you choose depends very much on your individual habits and training times. The easiest way to answer this question is with the rear light; it's all about being seen, and more or less all rear lights that can be operated with a battery or rechargeable battery and attached to the seat post or seat stays do this job properly. A note: Flashing lights (also on the front of the bike) are popular with many cyclists because they hope they will be more visible in traffic - but they are still prohibited on German roads.
When it comes to headlights, the majority of active winter cyclists get by with a battery or rechargeable battery-powered light, which can be attached to the handlebars using special brackets or an elasticated strap. It is important that the headlights (as well as the rear lights) bear the appropriate approval mark for road traffic authorisation (a wavy line, the letter "K" and a multi-digit number). Such lights are available from brands such as Busch&Müller, Cateye, Lezyne, Sigma or Trelock; they cost between 100 and 150 euros, and some also include the matching rear light as a set. The illuminance of the headlights is around 100 lux and the batteries provide power for two to three and a half hours. With a suitably good and precisely aligned reflector, this is enough to ride on the road even in complete darkness and recognise obstacles such as potholes or cracks in the asphalt in good time.
Mudguards are a distinguishing feature for cyclists who really want to cycle in autumn and winter
If you are planning longer and regular rides outside of populated areas and in complete darkness, high-end lights such as those from Lupine or Supernova come into question, which turn night into day with powerful high beam headlights, but can also cost several hundred euros. The somewhat more expensive but smart alternative for nocturnal and frequent cyclists is a wheel with a hub dynamo, which means you no longer have to worry about the power supply for the headlight.
Mudguards
Mudguards on a road bike? Purists turn up their noses at this, but it is in fact the distinguishing feature for all road cyclists who really want to ride their bikes in autumn and winter. They are available as clip-on mudguards, which weigh little and are easy to fit, but are more suitable for sporadic use. If you want to cycle regardless of the weather forecast, you should opt for fixed mudguards that enclose as much of the front and rear wheel as possible. However, fitting them can be a test of patience, which is why you should always check the attachment points on the bike before buying. Useful mudguards, for example from BBB, Crud, Mudhugger or SKS, can be found for around 50 euros. By the way, plates for fixed mounting are not necessarily more expensive; the Bluemels from SKS, which have been tried and tested for many years and are still recommended, are available for less than 30 euros.
Thomas Musch
Publisher
