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"This is absolute Thibaut country!" shouted the Eurosport commentator as Thibaut Pinot rode towards the summit on stage 17 of the 2023 Tour de France. Or rather: flew. People stood in thick rows to the left and right, holding up signs and shouting their favourite up the mountain on his last Tour de France, towards the Petit Ballon, then on to the legendary Le Markstein. In the end, however, the French riders' favourite Pédaleur ran out of steam and finished seventh that day behind the stars Pogačar and Vingegaard.
Perhaps that is why people love the man from Mélisey so much. The fact that he fought, won, lost and always got back up even after serious setbacks. Pinot was never the slick professional who meticulously worked through his training plans. Pinot epitomised life. Other successful professional cyclists move to glamorous Monaco, Thibaut always stayed in his down-to-earth Mélisey in the Vosges and indulged in his hobby of football. When he didn't have to race, he played football with rumblefoot riders on rumblefoot pitches against other rumblefoot riders. For the people there, Thibaut is not a man from the television, he is simply one of them.
Favourite route Route des Crêtes
"The Route des Crêtes is my favourite route," he said after the stage in Le Markstein. "It's a moment that will stay in my head forever." Former pro and Eurosport co-commentator Bernhard Eisel said: "No rider has ever had such a farewell at the Tour, not even Richard Virenque." The "Süddeutsche Zeitung" also paid tribute to him in the article "Der Flummi des Pelotons". "He never won the Tour - but his constant failures made him all the more popular with the nation," wrote the SZ.
So what remains? Pinot's victories in L'Alpe d'Huez and on the Tourmalet. But above all the last climb in Alsace, when tens of thousands cheered him on. In football, they say that fans can be the twelfth man. Here there were 12,000 men cheering on Pinot, who has "Solo la vittoria e bella" tattooed on his arm, which translates as "Only victory is beautiful". After the stage, for once nobody was talking about the winner Tadej Pogačar, but about Thibaut Pinot and his fans, according to the SZ. One last time, he fought valiantly, rode at the front for a long time, but was denied victory. It is no coincidence that the biography of Pinot is called "Le dernier des romantiques", the last romantic.
Today, Thibaut lives in Mélisey with his girlfriend Charlotte Patat. Strictly speaking, this already belongs to the Haute-Saône region, but Alsace is practically on Pinot's doorstep - and the hut for his many goats. Thibaut loves them: "They get up to mischief, run away, escape, eat trees," he recently told the daily newspaper "Ouest-France". Goats? Why goats? He loves the psychology of animals, he said. During my research trip to Alsace, I get in touch with him and ask him if he would like to go for a bike ride with me. He'd love to, he says, there's only so much going on on the farm at the moment. I want to know which route he favours in Alsace. All of them, he says. Just all of them.
Between the Rhine plain and the Vosges
So I end up travelling alone to the region in the north-east of France, which is bordered to the west by the main Vosges ridge, includes the Rhine plain, borders Germany to the east and Switzerland to the south. Cyclists will find perfect conditions for varied tours in the region. In the Rhine plain, which is characterised by a mild climate, you can collect basic kilometres almost all year round, while the nearby Vosges mountains rise to an altitude of just over a thousand metres and offer routes that are as scenic as they are challenging.
It's no wonder that the Tour de France repeatedly tackles climbs such as the Grand Ballon, Col du Wettstein or Le Markstein when metres in altitude are needed before or after the Alps or stages that can make a difference in the overall classification. Alsace is also committed to sustainability in tourism. According to tourism director Marc Lévy, the focus is on climate-neutral transport, environmentally friendly accommodation and green activities - which should fit in well with our concept as racing cyclists. Around 2,500 kilometres of cycle paths criss-cross Alsace, 600 of which are in Strasbourg alone, the most bike-friendly city in France. "Rely on muscle power, it's healthy and good for the environment!" says Lévy.
He doesn't have to tell us twice. My first port of call is the "Domaine de Haslach", located around 20 kilometres from Colmar in the heights of the Munster Valley. Owner Christian Hagenstein is a sportsman through and through and has dedicated himself to running. He has already taken part in the "Ultra Mont Blanc", an ultramarathon that leads around Mont Blanc. 170 kilometres and 10,000 metres in altitude. He has also completed the "Marathon des Sables", once through the Sahara. In 2018, he sold his timber factory and put everything on the tourism map. The result is the Domaine de Haslach: a former lung sanatorium, built and opened in the 1920s, which now houses flats, eco-lodges and tree houses for nature-loving holidaymakers. "There is no better retreat than here in the forest," says Christian Hagenstein.
About Grand Ballon and Le Markstein
I leave it now, as I still have a lot planned for today, following in the footsteps of Thibaut Pinot. However, it's so cold today that Christian recommends I leave my water bottles in the tree house. "Better take several breaks and drink tea," he advises me. The ride down from his site feels arctic, but as I start to climb, I quickly warm up - the climbs in Alsace are really tough, but not quite as long as the Stilfserjoch or Timmelsjoch. I first cycle over towards the Grand Ballon, then to Le Markstein - the place where Thibaut Pinot ended his cycling career to the cheers of the spectators. The view is a dream, the mountains glow all around, the view stretches as far as the Alps.
Then it's down again on the other side. First the hairpin bends, then through the beautiful valley, where late autumn and early winter are at their best. It is a brown and red play of colours. The beauty of the next pass: the view over the open landscape, the fields, the meadows, the villages. A few more hairpin bends and then I've made it to this summit too, finally reaching the top of the Col du Wettstein. On the one hand, I'm happy. On the other hand, this place at just under 900 metres above sea level also feels depressing. This is because 3,538 fallen French soldiers from the First World War are buried here. At the end of the military cemetery, a 13-metre-high granite cross towers up. It is a reminder of the suffering and pain of the fallen. I stop to remember the victims. 17 million people died in the First World War.
Back at the Domaine de Haslach, I read up on the history of Alsace, which was originally Celtic, then Roman and then passed to Germanic tribes. After a period as part of the German Empire, it became French again in 1918, then changed hands again during the Second World War before finally becoming a permanent part of France in 1945. Some people still get confused today: the television channel CNN once placed Strasbourg in Germany in a report. True French people, on the other hand, as author Sabine Klüber once described in the "Arte" magazine, occasionally have problems pronouncing place names such as Ichtratzheim or Oberschaeffolsheim correctly. What sounds so un-French, many might think, could not possibly belong to the Grande Nation. "Alsace, my love" was the title of a programme by TV author Klüber. Subtitled: "Typical France: so French, so German - and yet so unique."
The next day, I travel to the Bruche Valley, where people are particularly respectful of nature and other people. The "Hel'eau la Bruche" network, a regional community project initiated by the tourism office in the Bruche Valley, is quite extraordinary. In order to reduce the amount of plastic waste and so that tourists don't have to buy plastic bottles, many shops and residents have a "Halte Gourde" sticker (meaning: water point) on their windows or doors. This lets all cyclists know that bottles can be refilled with water free of charge. Town halls, shops, accommodation, restaurants, museums and even many private households have joined the network. You ring the bell and get fresh water. "Where else in the world is there anything like this?" asks tourism manager Simone Leininger, who I meet on my tour through the Bruche Valley.
We make an appointment with Nadège Monna and Antoine Huguenin. The young couple run the "Huna" restaurant in Waldersbach. The produce they use has not travelled far. Whereas the couple used to grow everything on their balcony, which measured just six square metres, they now have 13 acres at their disposal. Antoine utilises everything that is currently growing outside in the kitchen - with success: he has already been awarded a green Michelin star. Whatever he can't use at the moment is fermented: fruit, vegetables, plants. The lamb, beef and veal come from Antoine's father, the game comes from the Bruche Valley. What's for dinner tonight? "I won't say," Nadège replies with a laugh. The 7-course menu is an evening full of surprises. There is no menu. Antoine reveals: "Every plate tells a story: the story of a living cuisine that respects the time and terroir of the Bruch Valley." It's already apparent: What I have to watch out for on the Alsace tour - despite the many tough climbs - is my calorie surplus and that it doesn't go through the roof.
Nadège and Antoine present a few samples of the things that will be on the table tonight. What can I say? I feel like God in France. Then I ask myself: where does the expression actually come from? The origin of the expression is not clear, writes Geo magazine. However, it is certain that it originated around the time of the French Revolution, in the late 18th century. For a long time, France had a social order. It divided people into three classes: The clergy formed the first class, the nobility the second and all other citizens the third. The first class enjoyed many privileges, its members paid no taxes and lived in great prosperity. This is why the vernacular in France developed this sweet life into a winged word for serenity, in which God was mentioned on behalf of the entire clergy. So I finally know that too.
On the last day, I opt for the tour over the Col des Pandours. I start in Strasbourg, ride a few small and crisp passes in the central part of the Vosges before heading into the hilly northern Vosges. Like the days before, it's beautiful as I pedal through my beloved Bruche Valley via the Hasel Valley on to Wangenbourg-Engenthal and Col de Valsberg. When I get back to Strasbourg after almost 100 kilometres and almost 1,000 metres in altitude, my stomach is growling. I decide to fill up at the "Kooma" - a co-operative with 50 members. The speciality: The co-operative only sells organic food in the shop and only organic food is cooked in the restaurant. The brasserie is the beating heart of the "Manufaktur-Insel". Like "Ferme du Kikiriki" or "Ferme de la Coccinelle", the producers come from the neighbourhood. The only route the chefs have to take is from the kitchen to the shop. It couldn't be quicker or more sustainable.
Today I want to dash off to Martine Becker, head of the Jean Becker winery. Martine converted her winery to organic farming back in 1999. That means: no pesticides, no chemicals. Why did she do this? Martine explains. For ten reasons: First and foremost out of respect for the natural balance between the soil, plants and animals, she says. It is also no coincidence, says Martine, that her ancestors decided to plant their vineyard here, given the geological richness. The plots are sometimes calcareous, sometimes clayey, sometimes sandy or even granitic. This creates a microclimate that is ideal for the sunlight on their plots. And you can taste it.
A look at the Alsatian cultural landscape, characterised in many places by winegrowers and farmers, brings us full circle to Thibaut Pinot: after his career as a successful professional cyclist, the Alsatian has moved on to a new life. In a recent interview on the French podcast "Entre la selle et la pédale", the now 35-year-old gave an insight into his new everyday life as a farmer. He even created an Instagram profile for one of his goats, who are particularly close to his heart. He now runs a farm with 50 cattle and 80 sheep and seems to have found fulfilment in his new life away from professional cycling. The transition from professional sport to life as a farmer seems to have been easy for Pinot. "I don't miss much from my time as a pro," explained the former climber in an interview. He still cycles regularly, but without the pressure to perform and purely for pleasure. He particularly enjoys the freedom of travelling without a training plan and wattmeter. I feel a direct connection with him. I had unbelievably wonderful days on the road bike in Alsace. I ate like a king. Perhaps my biggest victory was that I didn't put on weight.
Tour and travel information Alsace
For orientation
Alsace is a cultural landscape in the east of France that stretches across the south-western part of the Upper Rhine Plain. It borders Germany to the north and east and Switzerland to the south. With around 295,000 inhabitants, Strasbourg is the largest and capital of Alsace. The political borders of the region have changed several times over the course of history, and its affiliation has alternated several times between Germany and France. The fact that Alsace was and to some extent still is German-speaking is reflected in the many German-sounding place names. Alsace is bordered to the east by the Rhine and to the west by the main ridge of the Vosges, which is crossed by the broad valleys of the Ill tributaries. Vast areas of high pasture alternate with dense forests. The peaks of the Vosges rise to just over 1,000 metres, the Grand Ballon (Great Belchen) is the highest mountain in Alsace and the Vosges at 1,424 metres. In addition to the routes presented, the 77-kilometre Vosges ridge road (Route des Crêtes) between the Col du Bonhomme in the north and Cernay in the south is a particularly attractive and popular route - although it is also popular with motorcyclists and car excursionists.
Journey
By train 14 regional railway lines with 161 stops - this means that Alsace has an excellent railway network. SNCF bus services that are coordinated with the train timetables ensure easy onward travel to many Alsatian towns and villages. Bicycles can be taken on trains free of charge - except at peak times on the route between Strasbourg and Basel. And: the TGV high-speed train travelling on the Basel-Mulhouse-Strasbourg axis opens up further train connections.
By car
You can cross the region from north to south in less than two hours on the A35 motorway. Distances: Frankfurt - Colmar approx. 280 kilometres, Munich - Colmar approx. 440 kilometres Compulsory vignette The entire city of Strasbourg is an environmental zone in which driving bans apply to older and polluting vehicles. The French Crit'Air environmental sticker is mandatory. Information and online purchase at www.certificat-air.gouv.fr.
Best time to travel
May to October. The climate in Alsace is already quite mild in spring, especially in the Rhine Valley. The region is generally considered to be relatively dry, but occasional rain showers and cold spells are common in March. In the summits of the main Vosges ridge, there can still be snow in late autumn and well into spring. Summer in Alsace is generally warm and dry, with temperatures around and over 30 degrees in June and well into September. In the Vosges, on the other hand, it is always cool. On sunny weekends, the Vosges also attract numerous motorcyclists and car excursionists.
Worth seeing
Strasbourg is not only the seat of the European Parliament, but is also home to numerous other European institutions. The city has many impressive sights, including the cathedral and the Petite France and Neustadt districts (UNESCO World Heritage Site).
Colmar is considered the capital of Alsace wines and impresses with the beauty of its historic centre. Well-known sights include the Statue of Liberty by Bartholdi and the La Petite Venise neighbourhood. The Unterlinden Museum is home to the Isenheim Altarpiece by Matthias Grünewald and Nicolas de Haguenau, one of the most important masterpieces of the Renaissance.
Nature & Culture
Alsace is home to two regional nature parks: the Vosges du Nord (Northern Vosges) Nature Park and the Ballons des Vosges (Vosges Mountains) Nature Park. The region also has over 20 nature reserves, seven award-winning long-distance hiking trails, 18,000 km of marked hiking trails, ten nature conservation centres (CINE) and 76 lakes and bodies of water. Alsace is also a famous wine-growing region: there are 119 wine-growing communes, 51 Grands Crus sites and 50 educational wine trails. Alsace is the only French wine-growing region to have been awarded the "Vignobles & Découvertes" label in its entirety.
Overnight stay, food & drink
Domaine de Haslach Chef Christian Hagenstein has transformed a former lung sanatorium from the 1920s into a beautiful, eco-friendly holiday resort with flats, seven eco-lodges and five stylish tree houses. The Domaine is located in the middle of five hectares of natural landscape 20 kilometres from Colmar and is an ideal base for tours into the Rhine Valley and the Vosges mountains. www.domaine-haslach.com/
Mont Champ du feu The stylish hotel-restaurant is located in the middle of the nature reserve of the same name near the village of Belmont in the Vosges, around 60 kilometres from Colmar and Strasbourg respectively. The Haut-Koenigsbourg castle, one of the most popular sights in the region, is within easy reach, as is the Col du Bonhomme, the starting point for the Route des Crêtes. https://montchampdufeu.com/de/
huna In the middle of the Bruchetal valley, just ten minutes from Schirmeck in the village of Waldersbach, the Huna restaurant offers regional and seasonal cuisine. The young owners, Nadège Monna and Antoine Huguenin, both come from Alsace and the Vosges mountains respectively. They do not have a menu. - there is what there is. https://huna-le-restaurant.fr/
Jean Becker Winery Since 1999, the Beckers no longer want to know anything about chemicals, since then they have only been organic. This means that the family business does not use any pesticides or chemicals. The plots are sometimes calcareous, sometimes clayey, sometimes sandy or even granitic. This creates a microclimate that is ideal for the sunlight on their plots. www.vinsbecker.com
Water network Hel'eau la Bruche is the first network of drinking water providers in Alsace. In order to protect the environment and nature from plastic waste, the tourist office has mobilised residents, shops, town halls and tourist facilities in the Bruche Valley and jointly created a network of more than 100 drinking water points. Hikers and cyclists can fill up their water bottles free of charge during the opening hours of public facilities or - depending on availability - at private individuals. The nearest water points can be geo-localised on an interactive map on the Internet; QR codes on the network members' letterboxes direct you to the nearest water point. www.rando-bruche.fr/
Info
- Alsace tourism: www.visit.alsace/de/
- Cycling in Alsace: https://www.radfahrenimelsass.de/
- Bruche Valley: https://www.valleedelabruche.fr/
- Strasbourg tourism: https://www.visitstrasbourg.fr/de/willkommen-in-strasbourg/
- Colmar tourism: https://www.tourisme-colmar.com/de/
Literature & Maps
- Travel Guide Dumont Travel Pocketbook Alsace, new edition November 2025, 19,90 Euro
- Map Bikeline cycle map Alsace North or Elass South, 1:75,000, Verlag Esterbauer, 8.90 euros each
The GPS tracks to follow
TOUR 1 - To the Grand Ballon and Le Markstein, 125 km | 2640 m elevation gain
This challenging tour starts at the Domaine de Haslach and heads south from Soultzbach-les-Bains along the main Vosges ridge via Soultzmatt, Issenheim and Wattweiler. This is followed by the long ascent to the Grand Ballon (summit at 1424 metres), then the route leads over the heights of the Vosges to Le Markstein, Col de la Schlucht and Col du Wettstein. After the final ascent to the Col du Linge (987 metres), you return to the starting point at the Domaine.
TOUR 2 - Through the Bruche Valley to the Champ du Feu, 70 km | 1650 m elevation gain
The tour begins in Schirmeck and initially follows the beautiful Bruche valley gently uphill to Urbach (Fouday), where the route turns onto the Route du Champs du Feu (D57) towards Waldersbach and quickly climbs the Vosges slopes. The first high point is reached at the Auberge de la Charbonnière after just under 17 kilometres. The route then climbs steadily up and down via Le Hohwald and the Col du Kienberg (712 metres) to Vorbruck, where the lowest point of the route is reached and the route turns west again. After crossing the forest, the route descends steeply into the Magel valley before returning to the Bruche valley and the starting point via Grendelbruch and Schwarzbach.
TOUR 3 - Strasbourg, Col de Pandours and back, 100 km | 800 m elevation gain
A contrasting programme to the tours through the mostly deserted Vosges. From Strasbourg, the tour heads west without any significant climbs and follows the Bruche Canal for a while from Hangenbieten onwards to Emolsheim-Bruche and Molsheim. Shortly before Urmatt, the route branches off to the right and climbs steadily via Niederhaslach, Oberhaslach and Gensbourg. After around half of the route, the route crosses the Col de Pandours, which, despite its modest pass height of 662 metres, has also been visited by the Tour de France. The route continues northwards via Wolfsthal and Engenthal le Haut before heading back towards Strasbourg at Steigenbach, which is reached via Cosswiller and past Wasselonne.
TOUR 4 - Domaine de Haslach, Petit Ballon, Le Markstein, Grand Ballon and back, 115 km | 2900 m elevation gain
The tour can also confidently be described as a Tour of the Vosges, especially as it takes in the Grand Ballon and Le Markstein over the Col de Haag, which will also be part of the 14th stage of the Tour de France 2026. The starting point is once again the Domaine de Haslach. At Luttenbach, the route swings up into the Vosges mountains, with the Petit Ballon marking the first highlight. At Sondernach, turn left towards Nonselkopf and Breitfirst to Le Markstein. The descent leads past the Lac de Kruth-Wildenstein and follows the Thur valley to Moosbach. Via Geishorn to the Grand Ballon and for the second time to Le Markstein. The tour returns to Munster via Sondernach and Metzeral through the Fecht valley.
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