The badger is actually quite a cute animal and, with its black and white striped fur, also very pretty. The only thing you mustn't do is irritate it, because then it becomes aggressive and dangerous. How many badgers live in Brittany is anyone's guess, but when the Bretons talk about badgers, they mean Bernard Hinault anyway - one of the best cyclists of all time, who was born in Yffiniac near Saint-Brieuc in Brittany. His motto was: "As long as I breathe, I attack" - hence the nickname. Where "Le Blaireau" - as the badger is called in French - once began his world career, we followed in his footsteps in the early summer of 2025, travelling both on Hinault's home circuit and where the Tour de France train rolled past a little later.
At the home of Bernard Hinault
We have never seen a real badger or Bernard Hinault on our tours. In the first case, this is because badgers are nocturnal by nature. And in Bernard Hinault's case, it's probably because the now 80-year-old former champion rarely sits on his racing bike. What's more, he was extremely busy before the 2025 Tour of France. One appointment followed the next, and all we had left were the oversized portraits of the five-time Tour de France winner on the walls of buildings in his home town and the TV adverts in which he promoted the Tour de France. But the adverts are actually superfluous. It is well known that the French in general and the Bretons in particular are crazy about cycling.
Audrey Cordon-Ragot comes from the area. We met the multiple French champion in her home country and then spoke to her again on the phone. She says of cycling in Brittany: "I've never experienced such an incredible atmosphere at cycling races anywhere else, except perhaps in Belgium. Even at the Tour de France Femmes 2025, the enthusiasm in my home country was so overwhelming that I had tears in my eyes." And then she says the beautiful sentence in French: "Le vélo est Roi en Bretagne!" Translated, this means something like: "The bicycle is king in Brittany!"
Brittany - a very special landscape
If you drive your tours in Brittany without the cheers of the enthusiastic spectators at the roadside, then you are left with your own enthusiasm for this unique landscape, especially along the coast. The Atlantic coast of Brittany presents a different face every few kilometres. Sometimes with long sandy beaches, then again with dreamlike bays between bizarrely shaped rocks; steep cliffs with historic lighthouses tower boldly into the Atlantic, in between picturesque villages and small towns with the typical natural stone houses made of grey granite and with blue-painted shutters. Almost every one of them is surrounded by a sea of flowers: magnificent hydrangeas in every imaginable colour and decorative lilies in particular. And if there are no Breton fans waving the "Gewn ha Du" - the black and white Breton flag - it flutters merrily in the wind in countless gardens. The Bretons are Bretons first and foremost. And then French.
The mild climate makes it possible for even palm trees and bananas to thrive here alongside the most colourful flowers. So far, so pretty. But above all, the ebb and flow of the tide mean that the landscape in one and the same place changes every few hours. That's exactly why we had a brainwave and changed our plans on the spot: Instead of cycling from Morlaix, our first location, along the coast towards Plougasnou and back through the interior via Lanmeur, we spontaneously decided to cycle the same route there and back again. Simply because we wanted to see how the scenery on the Breton coast changes completely within hours due to the tides. Nowhere else in Europe is the tidal range as enormous as in Brittany. At Saint Malo it is usually eleven to twelve metres, at Le Mont-Saint-Michel even 14 metres. Only in the Bay of Fundy in Canada is it even greater.
Ships in the silt
It's a bit like someone simply pulling the plug. Thousands of boats then lie in the silt at low tide, some of them in a precarious position, as if the owners had given up on them. But no way. When the tide comes in, yachts and fishing boats bob up and down on the water again and the Bretons pursue their second great passion: boating and sailing in particular. The tide comes in quickly in Brittany. "À la vitesse d'un cheval au galop". This is how the French poet Victor Hugo once described it - "as fast as a galloping horse". "It's crazy with the tides," says Audrey Cordon-Ragot with a laugh, "I've often seen tourists park their car somewhere on the coast and when they came back and wanted to drive off, it was floating in the water."
Professional cyclists are known to travel as fast as a galloping horse. On the 7th stage of the Tour de France 2025 to the legendary Mur de Bretagne, the average speed was a blistering 48.117 km/h. We took it much slower, by necessity. Because even though the highest elevations in the region do not exceed 400 metres, Brittany is a highly challenging area for amateur cyclists. Where our colleagues Pogacar & Co. simply iron out the climbs on the big leaf, we had to constantly and frantically downshift to avoid starving to death on one of the numerous ramps. Not to mention the Mur de Bretagne, which the pros had to tackle twice in 2025. The steepest sections are said to be 13 or 14 per cent, but it felt like the dead-straight tarmac led straight into the Breton sky and was a real pain.
Never long, but disgustingly steep
In the hinterland of Brittany in particular, you otherwise feel like you're on a rollercoaster ride, or rather a ride in the "Wild Mouse". Because the climbs are never long, but sometimes disgustingly steep and there are countless bends through the tranquil and undulating to hilly farming and inland areas. "As beautiful as it may be on the coast," says proud Breton Audrey Cordon-Ragot, "I'm a country girl, and where the roads are the steepest, where there is heavenly peace, is my home." The hinterland of Brittany is criss-crossed by endless hedgerows, called bocage in French. Buckwheat is grown here again, the basic ingredient for galettes, the crêpe variation made from buckwheat flour that is so beloved by the Bretons. And you roll past huge fields of artichokes. These slightly bitter but extremely tasty thistle plants are also a speciality of Brittany. The sepals, the "heads" of the artichokes, look funny - almost like aliens, all little ETs.
From Morlaix, the tour takes us into the Parc Naturel Régional d'Armorique and up the Roc'h Trevezel, the second highest peak in Brittany at 381 metres - incidentally also a stopover on the legendary 1200-kilometre Paris-Brest-Paris Brevet. The view from the summit at the small Saint-Michel de Barsparts chapel is gigantic and, on a clear day, stretches all the way across to the Atlantic. The mountain is surrounded by a barren landscape covered only by heather and gorse.
Fantastic view from the Cap
On the descent back towards Morlaix, we then race through dark mixed forests almost as fast as the pros. "Argoat", "land of forests", is what Brittany was once called before large areas of woodland fell victim to massive deforestation over the centuries. They once stretched as far as the coast, where a certain Obelix is said to have hunted wild boar around 2000 years ago. The fat, jovial and somewhat simple-minded Gaul and his smart pal Asterix from the world-famous comics were not actually French, but Breton. The village of the indomitable Gauls was actually located by their creator, Albert Uderzo, on the coast of Brittany - in Erquy.
The people of Erquy cite the picture on page three of the Asterix volumes as proof of this. They clearly want to recognise the three rocks off the coast of their town in the motif under the magnifying glass. As we stroll through the streets after a café au lait in the harbour of Erquy, we see little Asterix and Obelix figures everywhere in the souvenir shop displays. It's hard to understand why Asterix costs nine euros and Obelix ten. Maybe it's based on weight? We searched in vain for magic potion for the next tour ...
The colours of the coast
Our intermediate destination a little further west of Erquy is Cap Fréhel with its historic lighthouse. In July and August, the heather above the cliffs shines in a delicate violet colour, with the yellow blooming broom forming a magnificent contrast. Looking from the cliffs over the emerald green water into the distance, it is easy to imagine why the Romans once believed this to be the end of the world, the "Finis Terrae".
Fabien Leduc from the "Abiciclette" agency, from whom we borrowed our racing bikes, waxes poetic and even pathetic when he talks about Cap Fréhel. "Every time I see the cliffs and this lighthouse facing the elements, a shiver runs through my body, as if I had entered the radius of an electromagnetic field of which this lighthouse is the centre. In short: it's a real goosebump landscape." We got up at six in the morning because we were afraid that we wouldn't be alone at this excursion hotspot in Brittany. But the hordes of coach tourists who arrive here from 9 a.m. at the latest have shocked us a little. So we quickly get back on the saddle and pedal back towards Saint-Brieuc via Yffiniac.
Bernard Hinault greets larger than life
Yffiniac was already busy with work, as Bernard Hinault's home town naturally wanted to dress up for the Tour de France. We craned our necks and nearly caused an accident, hoping to spot the great Bernard Hinault - perhaps riding his bike to the shops. But apart from the oversized Hinault in the yellow jersey on the wall of the house on Rue de Penthièvre, there was no sign of him. But as sure as ebb and flow follow each other on the Breton coast - even without a proven badger sighting, a trip to Brittany by road bike is worthwhile.
Information about Brittany
Journey
Railway
In times of climate change, this is a real alternative if you don't necessarily insist on taking your own bike with you. This is certainly feasible, but is rather difficult. There are now parking spaces on TGV trains that have to be reserved, but only very few of them; there are none on the Thalys trains from Cologne to Paris. When travelling by train, all routes once again lead via Paris, where you have to change stations (you can buy a metro ticket on the TGV on the way to Paris). From Gare de Montparnasse (approx. one hour by metro including the walk from Gare de l'Est), the TGV then takes a good three hours to Morlaix. The regional train from Morlaix to Saint-Brieuc takes a good hour, and the journey time between the two cities is also around an hour by hire car. Info: www.bahn.de / www.sncf.com/de BUS An alternative for travelling to the city is the FlixBus, which runs from Cologne to Paris, for example, but also to St. Malo. However, you must book your bike in advance, as only a few bikes can be transported per bus. www.flixbus.de
Car
It is around 1400 kilometres from Hamburg to the north-west of Brittany. The fastest route leads via Cologne, north of Paris, to the destination. In addition to the petrol costs, this route incurs tolls of around 60 euros for the outward and return journey. If you are travelling from the south of Germany (Munich - Morlaix: approx. 1350 km), the toll costs are just under 90 euros due to the longer distance on the toll motorways in France.
Aeroplane
There are only a few direct flights from Germany to Brittany. Only from Frankfurt/Main is it possible to fly to Rennes without a stopover. As a rule, you can fly from all other German airports to Rennes or Brest with Air France via Paris, whereby the inconvenient transfer from Charles de Gaulle Airport to Orly Airport is no longer necessary. Return flights cost from around 300 euros. From Brest, it takes around half an hour by hire car to Morlaix and around an hour and a half to Saint-Brieuc. From Rennes Aeroport, it takes just over an hour to get to Saint-Brieuc and two hours to get to Morlaix.
Accommodation
Morlaix
La Petite Folie de Morlaix (https://www.lapetitefolie-morlaix.fr/)
Townhouse with large garden above the old town. Beautifully furnished rooms with family connection, the hosts Vincent and Elsa are simply great. The guest rooms are suitable for individuals or couples. All together costs 100 euros in low season, 140 euros in high season.
Saint-Brieuc
Le Moulin à Papier (https://www.moulin-a-papier.fr/)
Another very charming chambre d'hôtes, located just outside the town. Beautiful rooms in an old building from the middle of the 19th century, very friendly hosts, labelled as "Accueil Vélo" (bicycle-friendly accommodation). Double room from 95 euros.
Best time to travel
Early spring and late autumn can be uncomfortable in Brittany, with showers and constant rain with strong winds always a possibility. Summers are mild, but in times of climate change they can also be brutally hot. On an earlier trip in July 2022, the thermometer rose to 43 degrees, and in June 2025, temperatures inland reached up to 36 degrees. It is always a little cooler on the coast and a constant, fresh breeze makes it more pleasant. In the high season (July/August), the coast is packed.
Do not miss
The Pink Granite Coast is definitely worth a trip. At Ploumanac'h you will find an absolute dream beach; from there, a walk is recommended - preferably in the evening to the lighthouse. Opposite, in the small castle on the Île de Costaérès, the German comedian and actor Dieter Hallervorden has his temporary or retirement home. One of the most popular photo motifs in Brittany is located on the rugged rocky coast near Plougrescant: the house wedged between two rocks at the Pointe de Château. Saint Malo, the old corsair town, suffers acutely from "overtourism" in the high season - but it is still worth a visit. The same applies to Mont-Saint-Michel; the island mountain with the abbey is known as "La Merveille" (The Miracle) in the middle of the Wadden Sea - officially in the department of Normandy, however. The next infamous 1,200-kilometre Paris-Brest-Paris brevet will take place in 2027. www.paris-brest-paris.org
Food & Drink
If you love mussels, oysters and other seafood, you will truly feel like "God in France" in Brittany. The oysters from Cancale, a little further north, have even been a UNESCO Intangible World Heritage Site since 2019. If the mere mention of oysters makes you shiver, you don't have to worry about starving. Lobster, prawns, periwinkles and whelks (bulot and bigorneau), scallops, moule frites and various fish dishes are on the menu all along the coast. If you don't like that either, meat is of course also available, and by French standards, the restaurants often offer vegetarian and sometimes even vegan dishes. Brittany is also famous for its artichokes and, of course, for its crêpes and galettes (crêpes made from buckwheat flour), which are filled with all kinds of delicacies, from sweet (apple sauce, sugar, Nutella etc.) to savoury: goat's cheese, andouille (sausage made from offal) and fish. Even the kebab comes in the form of a galette kebab. The "national drink" of the Bretons is cider, a slightly sparkling cider with an alcohol content of around three to five per cent by volume. If you like cola and/or need a little sugar kick on the go, the Bretons have even launched their own delicious variant, Breizh Cola. The Breton butter biscuits are ideal for on the go; the caramel au beurre salé (salted butter caramel sweets) are nasty seal pullers, but sensationally delicious.
TOUR tip Saint-Brieuc
L'Aire du Temps has been praised by various gastro guides for years. The menu includes regional dishes such as cocotte (casserole) with monkfish medallions or artichaut à la barigoule (stuffed, braised artichokes) - interpreted in a modern way and prepared with first-class products. Great value for money, very good wine list. www.airdutemps.fr
Bicycle service
The cycle tour operator Abicyclette Voyages from Rennes rents out Wilier racing bikes as well as trekking bikes and e-bikes. The minimum hire period is ten days for one bike and five days for at least two bikes. Price per bike for five days: 247 euros, one week: 303 euros, ten days: 374 euros. The price includes delivery and collection of the bikes throughout Brittany. Also included are a water bottle, helmet, pump, lock, bike computer and a repair kit. www.abicyclette-voyages.com
Bike shops in Morlaix and Saint-Brieuc
Mor'Les Cycle in Morlaix also offers racing bikes for hire. Rue de Paris 5, +33 09 51381506 If you have problems with your bike in Saint-Brieuc, Culture Vélo in the suburb of Trégueux, https://www.culturevelo. com/-Saint-Brieuc-.
Maps & Literature
Travel guide Brittany, Michael-Müller- Verlag, 27.90 euros; Michelin regional 512, Brittany, scale: 1:200,000, 6.95 euros.
Info
www.tourismebretagne.com
www.atout-france.fr
www.bretagne-reisen.de
For orientation
Brittany is France's largest peninsula and is located in the far west of the country. The Gauls once called the region "Aremorica", which translates as "land by the sea". Influenced by the Gulf Stream, the climate is mild and palm trees and bananas grow in Brittany! The tides (marées) are absolutely characteristic of the coastal region; in the bay of Saint Malo, the tidal range is around eleven metres, at Mont Saint-Michel even up to 14 metres - more than anywhere else in Europe. French is spoken in Brittany, of course, but also Breton, which belongs to the Celtic language group. Almost all signs in Breizh, the Breton name for the region, are bilingual. Around 3.3 million people live in an area of around 27,000 square kilometres. The capital of Brittany is Rennes; Morlaix, with its gigantic railway viaduct, boasts a picturesque old town. Saint-Brieuc is nowhere near as touristy, but that is precisely what makes the old bishop's town so attractive.
Tour character
The two tours inland are mainly on tiny, almost exclusively well-paved roads with little traffic. Along the coast, the tour from Morlaix onwards is largely on minor roads with little traffic, while there is a little more traffic towards Cap Fréhel from Saint-Brieuc onwards. In the high season in July and August, it is packed everywhere. The highest mountain in Brittany, the Roc'h Ruz, is comparatively tiny with a height of 385 metres. Nevertheless, there are quite a few metres in altitude; on the inland tours, which are a good hundred kilometres long, there are around 1,300 metres in altitude each, on the tours along the coast around 1,000. Looking at the "sawtooth profile" of the routes, you know before the tour that there will be constant ups and downs and a few ramps - and as we all know, this often takes more energy than a longer, consistently steep climb.
The GPS data to follow
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TOUR 1
TOUR DE LA MARÉE
119 km | 1320 vertical metres | max. 12 % gradient
From Morlaix, it's just a few turns of the pedals to the coast. And it is so fascinating that we spontaneously decided to cycle back the same way. Not just because it's so beautiful there, but because we wanted to experience how the coast changes with the tides (marées) on the tour. Via Plougasnou and Locquirec, the road leads to Locquémeu with magnificent views of the Atlantic. After a refreshment stop at the Café du Port, we head back - and the landscape does indeed look completely different: Where there was water on the way there, the boats are now lying in the mudflats.
TOUR 2
TO THE ROOF OF BRITTANY
111 km | 1430 vertical metres | max. 10 % gradient
The tour from Morlaix inland is like a rollercoaster ride. On tiny, but almost always perfectly asphalted roads, the route leads through undulating to hilly farmland, through sometimes sleepy and then beautifully spruced-up villages and small towns to Mont-Saint-Michel de Brasparts (in Breton "menez Mikael-an-Are"), the second highest mountain in Brittany at 381 metres after Roc'h Ruz (385 metres). From the summit in the heart of the Amorique Nature Park, the route descends with a minimal gradient and mainly along the River Queffleuth back to Morlaix.
TOUR 3
TO THE MUR DE BRETAGNE
114 km | 1360 vertical metres | max. 14 % gradient
The tour from Saint-Brieuc into the centre of the country is also a pleasure, mainly because there is virtually no car traffic on the many tiny roads. Where Bernard Hinault once did his training laps, the landscape is anything but spectacular; you roll through farmland, endless fields of grain alternate with wooded passages, and here, too, there are constant ups and downs. It rarely gets steep, except of course on the legendary Mur de Bretagne (Côte de Menez-Hiez), where Tadej Pogaçar last came out on top on stage 7 of the Tour de France 2025.
TOUR 4
TO CAP FRÉHEL
110 km | 1060 vertical metres | max. 10 % gradient
The great Bernard Hinault also frequently trained on the coast north of his home town of Yffinac. The tour leads from Saint-Brieuc via Erquy to Cap Fréhel, undoubtedly one of the scenic highlights of northern Brittany. But because busloads of tourists are spit out almost by the minute, it is better to get back on the road quickly after a short stop. We head back inland to Saint-Brieuc, passing through the birthplace of Hinault. As you roll past, you are greeted by a larger-than-life portrait on the wall of a house.
