The oxen had a hard time dragging the Mother of God. No wonder. The old stone statue, which had been hidden in the village of Oberlag before the turmoil of the French Revolution and now wanted to be returned to its old location in the monastery of Lucelle, weighed quite a bit. And the climb up the rumpled cart track was steep. "The beasts just didn't want to go any further. So they left the statue up here and built a chapel," says Prosper Ruetsch with a grin.
We also need plenty of muscle power to climb the small pass between Oberlarg and Winkel. But unlike the team of oxen, we glide gently uphill on a perfectly tarmac road and rest for a while at the top on the bench in front of St Mary's Chapel. That's enough to keep us going. Especially as the view sweeps far over the gently rolling hills of the Sundgau. Hmm. A feast for the eyes!
Sundgau cycle tour: everything for cyclists
"Honestly, I can never get enough of it," says our companion. Prosper Ruetsch comes from the small village of Bouxwiller in the centre of Sundgau. The region is idyllically situated between the Vosges and Jura mountain ranges and stretches from Mulhouse to the Swiss border. Sundgau also connects the Upper Rhine Plain with the Rhône Valley and is also the southernmost, most isolated part of Alsace. "Le Sündgo", emphasises Prosper, who is accompanying us through his homeland today on his sturdy trekking bike, which is fit for the Alps: "The Sundgau is simply perfect for cyclists. Flat, hilly and really mountainous towards the Jura and Vosges. It's all there," he enthuses: "I've been touring for 45 years. I've climbed almost 1500 mountain passes all over Europe. But the routes on my doorstep still inspire me to this day."
Curved like a giant banana
The full widescreen panorama unfolds before our eyes: "To the south of Sundgau lie the mountain ranges of the Alsatian Jura," he explains: "They are curved like a giant banana." Many small country roads and cycle paths away from the traffic lead us from the tip of the banana right into the centre of the Jura Alsacien. We work up quite a sweat in Ferrette: It's not really a mountain tour, but it's pretty steep! The closer we get to the Jura, the steeper the ramps become and the more the Sundgau permanent wave piles up. Or, as Prosper says in Alsatian: "Ä bitzele s' Loch hoch!" Prosper's favourite route? "There's no such thing, I'm at home on the roads all over Sundgau."
In fact, it would be difficult to choose the best route: The centuries-old cultural landscape is criss-crossed by quiet side roads, tarmac farm tracks and former railway lines that have been converted into cycle routes. The route of the cycle tour leads gently up and down in sweeping curves between the wooded ridges, we breathe in the intense scent of the orchards, enjoy the shady coolness of the small woods and pass through charming little half-timbered villages with lush farm gardens.
Many place names are German: Liebsdorf. Hippoltskirch. Or Waldighofen. "Sundgau has switched between Germany and France several times in history, most recently after the Second World War," explains Prosper. The Alsatian dialect is similar to the Alemannic dialects on the other side of the Rhine: "We are the last generation to speak Alsatian. I speak Alsatian with my wife and our children speak French. It's a shame that this is being lost."
Speciality baked carp
The road of the cycle tour loses itself in gentle waves on the horizon. There is a fish pond around every other bend - these are mainly used to breed carp, which are used in the region's pubs and restaurants to create the culinary speciality of the Sundgau: Carpe frité - baked carp. It is usually served with French fries and plenty of mayonnaise. Served with a good Alsatian Riesling - delicious, but not a good idea during the lunch break. After all, it's always uphill again after the next bend.
2 cycle tours through the Sundgau
Tour 1: Permanent wave riding (65 km, 820 metres in altitude, asphalt)
The "Sundgau permanent wave" goes up and down steeply. The gently undulating hilly landscape becomes more mountainous with every kilometre to the south: gorge-like valleys and winding climbs await where the rolling hills of the Sundgau merge seamlessly into the rugged mountain ranges of the Alsatian Jura. The highest point of the tour is the inconspicuous road pass between Oberlarg and Winkel with a fantastic view of the Jura mountain ranges. This adds up to a good 820 metres in altitude. The route mostly runs along quiet side roads and cycle paths.
Tour 2: To the Alsatian Jura (59 km, 850 metres in altitude, asphalt)
The beautiful hilly landscape of the Sundgau against the imposing backdrop of the Vosges is the perfect place to start: a few hills, but easily manageable. But after ten kilometres, it gets down to business. The ride up the 816-metre-high Glaserberg near Switzerland, one of the highest peaks in the Alsatian Jura, requires a lot of power in the legs or a strong motor. The rapid descent to the border river Lucelle is followed by two more crisp ramps before we slowly roll out at the end. There are one or two places to stop for refreshments in the quiet villages. The tour runs along quiet roads and cycle paths.
GPS data for the Sundgau tours
The GPX tracks for the two tour suggestions in Sundgau can be found in the MYBIKE Collection at komoot or here for direct download.
Information about the Sundgau cycle tour
Sundgau
Ponds, rivers and green hills characterise the tranquil landscape between the Jura, the Rhine plain and the Vosges mountains in the far south of the French region of Alsace. Dreamy villages are dotted with half-timbered houses and down-to-earth gastronomy. The Sundgau is located in the immediate vicinity of Switzerland and Germany, and in the west the gently undulating hills extend to the watershed of the Rhine and Rhone. This also corresponds to the historical language border between the Romance and Germanic language areas. The majority of Alsatians once spoke an Alemannic dialect, which is very similar to the Baden dialect. Today, only a few people still speak Alsatian dialect: "The ditschsprochiga part of Alsace and Lorraine has had to grow its nàtionàlity several times." The region has alternated between Germany and France several times in history.
Journey
Car: Frankfurt / Main via A5 and A36 (France) to Lutter, 350 km, approx. 4 hours.
Season
Mid-April to mid-October
Sundgau cycle tour: Things to see
Ferrette Castle (Tour 1) is one of the oldest in Alsace. It was first mentioned in 1100. From there you have a marvellous panoramic view of the Vosges, the Black Forest and the Jura. For fire brigade enthusiasts: the Musée du sapeur pompier is one of the largest fire brigade museums in France and is located right next to the castle. 12-14 rue de Luppach, 68480 Vieux Ferrette.
Food and drink
All Alsatians share the joy of good food and drink, preferably in convivial company. This also applies to the Sundgau region. The speciality par excellence there is deep-fried carp, and the people of Sundgau have even dedicated their own culinary route to fried fish: the "Routes de la Carpe Frite". This is not surprising, as the region is known for its many idyllic carp ponds, which are located behind almost every hill. Best enjoyed with a good Alsatian Riesling or Pinot Gris. The carp is usually thickly sliced and coated in semolina, sesame or poppy seeds - every chef swears by their own recipe. More creative chefs even serve maki sushi or a carpaccio of carp.
Overnight stay and dinner on the cycle tour
Auberge Paysanne 1 rue de Wolschwiller 68480 Lutter - Phone: 0033 389407167 (www.aubergehostellerie-paysanne.com)
Beautifully decorated auberge with fine, cosy rooms. The restaurant offers delicious and refined regional cuisine.
Restaurant tip: Restaurant Au Cheval Blanc 21 rue Principale 68480 Kiffis - Phone: 00 33 3 89 40 33 05 (www.auchevalblanckiffis.com/)
The menu is small but carefully selected: Typical Alsatian dishes with seasonal ingredients and everything homemade, including the bread!
Refreshment stop Tour 1: À l'ombre du Château For a quick bite in between - in the shadow of Ferrette Castle. 1A rue de la première Armée Ferrette, France
Tour 2: Bistrot Chez Mamie Flo Nice little café with cakes and snacks - 19 Rue Principale 68480 Biederthal
Maps and travel guides
- IGN 122, Colmar, Mulhouse - Bâle/Basel, 1:100,000, topographical leisure map, waterproof, 11.50 euros.
- Travel guide "Alsace", by Antje and Gunter Schwab. Detailed, carefully researched travel guide with depth, Michael Müller Verlag, 464 pages, ISBN 978-3-95654- 950-2, 21.90 euros.
More information about the Sundgau cycle tour
- www.radfahrenimelsass.de
- www.sundgau-sud-alsace.fr/de/
