Extraordinary situations require extraordinary measures. Daniele Schena's measures are at least unusual. "If I want to have some peace and quiet on the road, I put my battery lamps on my bike and set off at the crack of dawn," says the bike-mad hotelier from Bormio. "Preferably so early that I'm at the top of the pass at sunrise." Daniele makes a living from tourism, but what happens on the ramps of the Stelvio Pass on some days is too much even for him. You can't sugarcoat it: When the motorised madness rushes through the labyrinth of bends in the high season, the Stelvio Pass unfortunately lives up to its nickname "Europe's highest fairground". Daniele, on the other hand, is presented with a completely different picture after his dawn rides at 2,758 metres above sea level. The shutters of the souvenir shops are closed, the air is not yet impregnated with the aroma of chips and bratwurst.
Views and breathtaking scenery
The first rays of sunshine illuminate the glacier on the Ortler. A breathtaking backdrop that is still something special for Daniele - and that's saying something. The climbing specialist has stopped counting his trips up the Stelvio Pass. But rumour has it that he has done well over three hundred, which is why his nickname "Stelvioman" is entirely justified. Daniele has another tip: "From Bormio, the road is generally less crowded than the north-east side, which has been photographed a million times." However, it cannot be denied that the ramp from Prad is the epitome of a mountain pass road, with its 48 legendary hairpin bends, spectacular and elegant at the same time. Each of them can tell exciting stories that fill entire chapters in Alpine chronicles and cycling magazines.
You can even get over the fact that the Stelvio Pass is "only" the second highest Alpine pass in purely topographical terms. Six metres lower than the comparatively unadorned Col de l'Iséran in the French Alps. And Daniele is not giving up in defence of his local mountain. "After all, there are also 35 hairpin bends on the western ramp," he says with a laugh. The section through the wild Valle del Braulio is one of the highlights of the region for him, without any ifs or buts. Where the rock faces close together between Monte Braulio and Cima di Reit was the key point on the arduous route to the Umbrail and Stelvio passes back in the Middle Ages.
Crossroads of the trade routes
In Bormio, you can literally feel the pulse of the old days still reverberating today. The next morning, we sit with Daniele in a typical bar in the Centro Storico, the historic town centre, where we have an espresso before setting off on our next tour. The town tower and the so-called Kuerc, a kind of canopy under which court used to be held, stand opposite. A network of alleyways branches off from the square, lined with defiant buildings with thick walls. Bormio was once the hub of important trade routes across the Alps.
On the one hand northwards to the Alemanni, but also via the high valley of Livigno into the Swiss Grisons. Daniele wants to show us one of these routes today, at least the part of it that is accessible by road bike. The ascent to the Torri di Fraéle was once part of the "Via lunga di Venosta", the long route into the Vinschgau Valley. Much further than the direct route over the Umbrail Pass, but lower and also usable in winter. We get into the saddles and enjoy the glorious morning. Although it is already the end of September, the sun has warmed the valley basin to a pleasant temperature. Perfect for exploring the passes. Its location close to the main Alpine ridge means that Bormio is often blessed with northerly winds and therefore better weather than the forecast predicts. We have this luck.
Immediately after the edge of the village, the road begins to climb and after a few kilometres you can already spot the two stone towers high up in a gap in the rocks. A dozen or so hairpin bends climb up the open slope - no wonder you always meet a handful of local cyclists on the Fraéle after work. An interesting fact: before the road was built in the 1920s, there was a stairway that led directly up to the Torri. From the narrow gap, goods traffic could be perfectly monitored all the way to Bormio. The tarmac ends at Lago di Cancano, which was also only created in modern times by damming. The muleteers travelled on through its basin towards Graubünden or through Val Mora and over the Reschen Pass.
Short construction time
In summer, the Umbrail Pass, then known as the Wormserjoch, was the main route from Valtellina to the north. Travellers also walked over the Stelvio Pass, but the exposed path down to Trafoi was particularly steep and dangerous. It was only when the crossing of Swiss territory at the Umbrail Pass caused political problems that plans were made at the beginning of the 19th century to build a road over the Stelvio Pass. The contract was awarded to the star engineer of the time, Carlo Donegani, who milled the route into the slope in just five years with the help of around 2,000 labourers. It was opened as early as 1825. At that time, a journey from Bormio to Prad by horse-drawn carriage took nine hours. Even in winter, sleigh teams travelled over the pass. Unthinkable today.
After the enjoyable climb to the Torri di Fraéle, however, our rest period is over. Because the classic tours around Bormio are anything but fun after-work laps. The passes repeatedly push even the pros of the Giro d'Italia to their limits. "I thought I was going to die," Fausto Coppi dictated to journalists in his notepad after the first crossing of the Stelvio in 1953. Or the infamous Gavia stage in 1985, after which the gazettes ran the headline: "The day the great men wept". The onset of winter with snow flurries and sub-zero temperatures meant that many riders almost froze to death. They had to thaw out in their team cars for thirty or forty minutes at the top of the pass in order to be able to continue at all. The eventual winner Andrew Hampsten was better prepared and tackled the descent wearing a scarf, ski hat and neoprene gloves. Snow chaos is almost always an issue at the Giro in spring when the Stelvio and Gavia are on the stage programme.
Challenging metres in altitude
When we set off for the Passo di Gavia the next day, the weather also brought tears to our eyes. But with joy! In any case, the blue sky provides motivation for the upcoming metres in altitude, because as usual on tours around Bormio, there is a sporty three in front of the daily total. And to start with, the Gavia Pass spoils us with solitary climbing and a mountain world of rugged beauty. A pleasant antithesis to the hustle and bustle of the Stelvio Pass. At the top of the pass, dramatic cloud formations billow up from the valley of Ponte di Legno. However, the thought of the steep ramps of the Passo del Mortirolo, which awaits us on the second half of the tour, instils even more respect. However, today's ascent on the eastern side via the mountain village of Monno is just a foretaste of what awaits cyclists on the western side. The stories alone are enough to send shivers down your spine. The discovery of the Mortirolo in 1990 was basically the consequence of horror stages like the one in 1985. The organisers simply needed a substitute sensation for the giants, which are often covered in snow in spring. And their motto was: steep is cool. At least for the spectators, who can watch the riders suffer for a few seconds longer on ramps of 18 per cent and more. Except perhaps for mountain fleas like Marco Pantani, who flew up the classic Mazzo ramp in 1994 at an average speed of 17 km/h and took the mountain classification. A monument in serpentine number 11 still commemorates this today, but we will honour this on another day. When our legs have recovered a little from chasing the passes around Bormio.
Info & tips Bormio
Journey
Railway
Whether by train or car - due to its hidden location in the heart of the Alps, Bormio is not easy to reach. The nearest train station is in Tirano, around 38 kilometres to the south in Valtellina. Tirano is connected to Milan, but can also be reached via Switzerland (Bernina Express). Journey time from Munich (via Milan) up to nine hours with five changes. An international bike card and a parking space reservation are required to take bikes on long-distance journeys; it is best to inform yourself in good time at www.bahn.de. The transfer between Tirano and Bormio is organised by the bus company Perego (www.busperego.com), most of whose fleet is equipped with bike racks. Booking by telephone is recommended: +37/(0)342/701200
Car
The most direct route from the east of southern Germany is via Innsbruck, Landeck, Reschenpass and Stilfser Joch to Bormio. Alternatively, you can also take the route over the Brenner Pass and via Bolzano and Merano. From south-west Germany, take the Swiss route via Chur, Julier Pass, St. Moritz, Bernina Pass and Tirano to Bormio. In each case, there are several pass crossings and toll charges. Distance from Munich around 300 kilometres (Reschen route), from Stuttgart 480 kilometres (Chur-Julier route).
Best time to travel
As the tours lead over some of the highest Alpine passes, there is only a relatively small window of opportunity for a stay in Bormio. The Stelvio Pass and Gavia Pass are usually open from June to October. However, if you can, you should avoid the months of July and August, when the Stelvio Pass in particular can be extremely busy. Tip: Depending on the weather conditions, the period from mid-September to mid-October can be ideal.
Event
Under the motto "Enjoy Stelvio National Park", there have been various days throughout the year since 2018 on which the Stelvio, Gavia and Cancano (Torri di Fraéle) passes are closed to motorised traffic. Example Stelvio Pass 2025: On 25 August, the north side from Trafoi, the south side from Bormio, Bagni Vecchi and the ascent over the Umbrail Pass from Santa Maria in Val Müstair. All information at www.enjoystelviopark.it
200 years of the Stelvio Pass
May 2025 marked the bicentenary of the opening of the Stelvio road. The valley communities have planned events on the theme throughout the season. A calendar of events can be found on the Venosta Valley website at www.venosta.net
Food & Drink
The Valtellina, which is located in the inner Alps and therefore quite sheltered from the weather, is climatically comparable to the South Tyrolean Vinschgau. And so large apple and fruit orchards spread out between the northern end of Lake Como and the town of Tirano up the valley. The main varieties grown are Golden Delicious and Gala, both with a rather sweet flavour. Like every Alpine region, Valtellina also has its very own cheese and dried meat varieties. Bresaola is an extremely low-fat beef ham that is thinly sliced and served on a plate with Parmesan shavings. Top with a little olive oil and lemon juice. It is served with a crispy, ring-shaped rye bread and a Lombard red wine. The typical cheeses are Bitto, made from cow's and goat's milk, and Valtellina Casera. The latter is often used as an ingredient in the region's most famous pasta dish: Pizzoccheri della Valtellina. This is a type of buckwheat spaetzle that is prepared in combination with various vegetables. The herbal liqueur Braulio, which was first produced in 1875 by the pharmacist Francesco Peloni in Bormio, deserves a special mention. This spicy amaro, bottled in oak barrels, is aged for two years in huge vaulted cellars beneath the old town centre. Naturally, the recipe for the distillate is closely guarded to this day and passed down from generation to generation.
Bormio Agriturismo Rini
Via Cavalier Pietro Rini 2, phone +39/(0)342/901224, www.agriturismobormio.it
The regional specialities from pasta to meat can be enjoyed in a warm wooden atmosphere. All cheese and sausage products come from our own production.
Accommodation
As a well-known winter sports resort - Bormio has already hosted two Alpine World Championships - the town offers a wide range of accommodation. And many of them cater for cyclists in the summer season. Bormio has set up a pitch for motorhomes on the southern edge of the village, the nearest campsite (Cima Piazzi) is four kilometres down the valley. Overview at www.bormio.eu
Bormio Hotel Meublé Sertorelli Reit
Via Monte Braulio 4 Phone +39/(0)342/910820 www.hotelmeublebormio.com
Family-run breakfast hotel on the edge of the historic centre. Lockable bike cellar with tools. Double room with breakfast from 89 euros.
Hotel Funivia
Via Funivia 34, phone +39/(0)348/3237483, www.hotelfunivia.it
Chef Daniele Schena was the first hotel in Bormio to specialise in cyclists. Tour tips are provided by the "Stelvioman" himself. Perfectly equipped bike workshop. Double room with breakfast from 99 euros.
Bormio bike service
Stelvio Experience Via Stelvio 5, phone +39/(0)342/238933, www.stelvioexperience.it
All-round service for cyclists: shop, café, workshop, hire and guided tours.
Info
Bormio Tourism, Via Roma 131/B, I-23032 Bormio, phone +39/(0)342/903300, www.bormio.eu
Do not miss
Thermal baths
Bormio's hot springs bubble to the surface north of the town with a temperature of up to 41 degrees. The warm water can be enjoyed in style at the old "Bagni Vecchi" thermal baths, which are located on the Stelvio road and offer great views (www.qcterme.com). The new "Bormio Terme" spa on the outskirts of the town is better suited to families (www.bormioterme.it). Insider tip: The locals go for a quick warm-up in the public natural pool of the "Terme Libere" (Vasche di Leonardo). It is located on the River Adda, not far from the road to Livigno (SS301), around two kilometres after Bormio in a sharp left-hand bend. From the car park, follow a narrow footpath along a rock face.
City Museum
The Museo Civico is more than just a substitute programme on a rainy day! In the rooms of the 17th century Palazzo de Simoni, you get an authentic impression of the hard life of our ancestors. On display are many everyday objects and artefacts from art and the church. Trade and transport over the passes is also a theme. A new exhibition is planned for the 2026 Winter Olympics, which is dedicated to the topic of war on the Stelvio Pass. Climate change will also play a role. This is due to the discovery of a fort on the 3,095 metre-high Monte Scorluzzo, which was previously hidden under the ice. www.museocivicobormio.it
Orientation: The tours on the map
The municipality of Bormio, which has around 4,000 inhabitants, is located at the southern foot of the Stilfer Joch in the upper valley of the Adda river, called Veltlin (Valtellina). The Adda flows into Lake Como 100 kilometres down the valley. Bormio belongs to the Lombardy region and the province of Sondrio. The spacious basin lies at 1,225 metres above sea level and is the crossroads and starting point of important historical trade routes, both towards Switzerland/Engadine and over the main Alpine ridge towards Vinschgau and Austria. Bormio has a long tradition as a winter sports resort and regularly hosts stages of the Giro d'Italia, most recently this year as part of the 17th stage. In 2026, numerous alpine competitions will be held on the local mountain as part of the Milan/Cortina Winter Olympics.
The GPX data of the tours for download
You can find these (and many other) tours for a fee at touren.bike-magazin.de or directly via QR code. TOUR subscribers receive the GPS data free of charge at tour-magazin.de. Simply register here and download it under "My area"!
At this point, you will find external content that complements the article. You can display and hide it with a click.
Tour 1: Stelvio Extreme
102 kilometres | 3200 vertical metres | max. 12 % gradient
At 2,758 metres above sea level, the Stelvio Pass is the second-highest Alpine pass - and is therefore a must for every pass rider. The focus is usually on the northern ramp, which enjoys cult status with its 48 hairpin bends. Compared to many other pass roads, the Stelvio Pass can be easily integrated into round tours, as there are two other crossings nearby, the Umbrail and Ofen. On this tour, the Umbrail Pass offers the opportunity to reach the coveted north-east side of the Stelvio with a descent on a somewhat quieter road. The ascent from Bormio to the Stelvio, which also leads to the top of the Umbrail Pass, is considered slightly easier than the famous ramp from Prad. This may be a small advantage at the start. In any case, you should attach emergency lights to your bike, as there are a few tunnels on the route, albeit only short ones. The landscape of the Valle del Braulio has its very own rugged charm. With every hairpin bend, the barren high valley opens up further until the road to Val Müstair in Switzerland branches off to the left at an altitude of just under 2,500 metres. At the same time, you cross the Umbrail Pass on the small plateau. In the Münstertal valley, it is advisable for racing cyclists to continue downhill on the main road, as some of the side roads are not tarmac. At the turn-off to Laatsch, the cycle route towards Meran is signposted. Follow this route to Prad. Now it's time to take a deep breath - and it's best to ignore the facts: 1,844 metres in altitude spread over around 25 kilometres and the legendary 48 hairpin bends. A ride through heaven and hell at the same time. All the better when you roll back into Bormio in the evening after 3,200 metres in altitude and a total of well over a hundred hairpin bends.
Tour 2: Two giants
108 kilometres | 3000 vertical metres | max. 15 % gradient
The cult status of the Stelvio Pass outshines all roads in the Bormio region. And perhaps that's a good thing. Because it means there is noticeably less hustle and bustle on the other passes. In any case, the Passo di Gavia is clearly the favourite among the locals. And with a summit height of 2,621 metres, it is also a giant. Just a somewhat gentler one, especially on the north side. The road is narrower, the gradient more human, the landscape more expansive. As soon as you leave the ski resort of Santa Caterina behind you, the Gavia can inspire you with its rugged beauty. There is even a glacier to admire as you work your way through the barren high valley to the top of the pass. This is also ennobled by Lago Bianco, on which icy patches can be found even in summer on some days. Take care on the descent to Ponte di Legno! In the lower, wooded section, the road is extremely narrow in places. Ponte is a somewhat unadorned ski resort, but you should use it for refreshments. There are still a few kilometres to go before the next climb to get back into your stride. The Passo del Mortirolo is also a giant, but in a different way. Even though the eastern ramp is only a foretaste of what this spectre has to offer on the western side. Nevertheless, the climb via the mountain village of Monno should not be underestimated and only ends at an altitude of 1,852 metres. The descent to Grosio is also one of the more moderate of the six variants on the Mortirolo. The remaining 500 metres of altitude difference through the Valtellina back to Bormio are spread over 25 kilometres, but they also have to be pushed away first. After all, you cycle traffic-free on a perfect cycle path.
Tour 3: Smugglers' paradise Livigno
106 kilometres | 3400 vertical metres | max. 12 % gradient
The municipality of Livigno lies in a high valley at an altitude of around 1,800 metres between the Swiss Engadine and Bormio. Due to its inaccessibility, Livigno was declared a customs exclusion zone as early as 1805, which is why trade and smuggling have always played a major role. To this day, the town lives almost exclusively from tourism. The high valley can only be reached via two passes, Foscagno and Forcola, or via a tunnel. Two of these are used on this route, which is best travelled in an anti-clockwise direction. This way, you can take a relaxed ride down the busy Passo di Foscagno to Bormio at the end. Please note that you must use a bike shuttle bus to cross the tunnel between the Ofen Pass road and Livigno, which only runs from June to August (hourly). The tour starts identically to the Stelvio tour with the crossing of the Umbrail Pass. In Santa Maria, however, you turn left and follow the ascending Val Müstair. The east side of the Ofen Pass (2,149 metres) is almost relaxing compared to the Umbrail, with an average gradient of less than 6 percent and 775 metres in altitude. The tunnel passage - also relaxed. The route then continues for 10 kilometres along the Lago di Livigno, mostly under avalanche protection galleries. Although these are not completely dark, emergency lighting on the bike is recommended. If you want to avoid the hustle and bustle of the town, take the cycle path that leads along the river directly back to the "exit" of the valley. The ascent to the Passo di Foscagno (2,291 metres) inevitably leads over the Passo d'Eira (2,210 metres) with an intermediate descent of 200 metres.
Tour 4: Mortirolo ridge road
115 kilometres | 2370 vertical metres | max. 18 % gradient
The mountain range of the Passo del Mortirolo is covered by a network of tarmac mountain paths, many of which are remnants of old military roads. Fortunately, these lonely routes are now only used to enjoy the view. And the views are better on the ridge road than on the Mortirolopass itself, as most of it runs through dense forest. But enjoyable panoramas are not the core competence of this pass crossing. It's more about pushing cyclists to their limits. After a relaxing roll-in phase downhill through the upper Valtellina, you should be prepared for just that! In Mazzo, the route turns left and follows the classic ascent of the Giro d'Italia, which makes even experienced professional cyclists tremble with its inhuman gradients. The numbered hairpin bends, one steeper than the next, simply won't end. At number 11, you pass a rusty monument commemorating the great Marco Pantani. The Italian climbing hero made history on the Mortirolo with memorable escapes. At the top of the pass, unlike the peloton, we don't rush straight back down into the other valley, but turn right onto an inconspicuous road signposted to Trivigno. This ridge road now winds its way southwards for kilometres along the entire mountain ridge. Not entirely without waves, but wonderfully quiet. The narrow descent from Alp Trivigno requires concentration and ends in Tirano, where coffee and cake are well deserved. The Valtellina cycle path takes you back to Bormio without a car.
Tour character
Passes, passes, passes - it's all uphill, no matter which way you start from Bormio. The only exception is the cycle path down the valley through Valtellina. But even there, other mountain passes lurk to the left and right. For example, the dreaded Mortirolo, or the mighty Bernina Pass with almost 2,000 metres of altitude difference over to the Swiss Engadine. The fact is: there is hardly any other place in the Alps that is so centrally located in the middle of a network of mountain passes and roads. And these are not just any passes! The Stelvio, Gavia and Umbrail take second, sixth and eighth place in the top ten ranking list of the Alps. There are also cul-de-sacs such as the Torri di Fraéle and to other mountain villages. Conclusion: If you come to Bormio, you have to be able and willing to do metres in altitude. An appropriate gear ratio on the bike - with a rescue sprocket - and adequate fitness are a must. And anyone tackling one of the circuits presented here must be aware that there are no easy shortcuts after the first pass. The weather also plays an important role in the high mountains. You should definitely be prepared for anything.
